Famous Tokaji Aszú Enthusiasts
“An amber beverage with gleaming hues that weaves the golden thread of the mind and makes the most spiritual of words sparkle.” Is believed to have been a dedication by Voltaire to his favourite wine.
Other Tokaji Aszú connoisseurs include Louis XIV of France who made Tokaji Aszú world famous in the 18th Century with his unforgettable words “Le vin des rois et le roi des vins”, which remains the marketing slogan for Tokaji Aszú to this day. Emperor Franz Jozef was also fond of the wine, and each year he’d send Queen Victoria a birthday gift, of one bottle for every month she had lived. On her 81st birthday she received 972 bottles of wine.
Tokaji Aszú was also widely enjoyed by writers, composers, celebrities, and Statesmen. Beethoven, Liszt, Goethe, Bram Stoker, and Johann Strauss were famous consumers. It was reportedly Joseph Haydn’s favourite wine, and Napoleon III ordered 30-40 barrels annually.
History
There is evidence that the vineyards in the Tokaj region of Hungary date back to the Roman Empire, when vines were introduced to Pannonia in the 5th Century AD. According to legend, when Árpád, the leader of the Hungarian Tribal federation migrated to the Carpathian Basin in the 9th century, he rewarded his most loyal followers with vineyards in the Tokaj area.
Historians believe that Hungarians had an ancient wine culture preceding their migration, as several basic words relating to viticulture such as wine, grapes etc. have been dated to before their settlement in present day Hungary. Only two European languages have their own word for wine, which were not derived from Latin; they are Greek and Hungarian.
The Tokaj region has a distinct viticulture tradition stretching back at least 1000 years, and is one of the most important wine producing areas in Hungary. It is a source of great national pride, and is an integral part of Hungarian heritage and culture. There is even reference to the Tokaj vines, and their drops of nectar in the Hungarian National Anthem. In 1757, by royal decree, the Tokaj area became the first closed wine district in the world, and in 2002 it was proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tokaj Area
The Tokaj area, in N.E Hungary, rests on a small plateau 457m above sea level. It is 87km long, 3-5km wide, and covers approximately 5500 hectares. The mineral rich volcanic soil is especially high in iron and lime. The region is subject to very cold winters, but is blessed with long hot summers allowing for an extended ripening period. All these factors contribute to the special microclimate that encourages the growth of noble rot, Botrytis cinerea, a form of fungal mould, which is the crucial element in the production of aszú grapes.
Tokaji Aszú
Tokaji Aszú is thought to have originated from a happy accident of fate in 1650 when the harvest was delayed due to fear of Turkish marauders. By the time Szepsi Laczkó Máté picked his grapes they were nothing more than mouldy, dry, wrinkled berries, which subsequently become known as aszú grapes. To his amazement the harvest produced an extraordinary wine.
When the aszú grapes are ready to harvest, which can be as late as December, each grape is individually selected and hand picked. The grapes are collected in a large container and crushed to the consistency of a thick paste. This substance is added to must, and is allowed to steep for a day or two allowing the sugars, natural flavours, and aromas to develop. The number of puttonys a bottle of wine is allocated can be between 3-6. Traditionally this is determined by the amount of puttonys (20-25kg tubs) of paste that is added to a 136,6 litre cask of must. Three tubs of paste per cask of must makes a 3-puttony wine, whereas six tubs of paste to per cask makes a 6-puttony wine. The more puttonys the higher the sugar level of the final product.
The wine is aged in wooden casks, one year for each puttony, therefore from 3-6 years although with modern methods this has been reduced to two years. The underground cellars where the casks are stored are covered with Cladosporium cellare, a noble cellar mould, which also helps to ensure the quality of the final product. This cellar mould only occurs naturally in two wine growing areas in the world, in the Rhine Valley and in Tokaj.
Types of Tokaji Wine
The name Tokaji, has been given Protected Designation of Origin, is used for referring to wine from this area. A selection of six grape varieties has been officially endorsed for the production of Tokaji wines. Furmint is the most important grape in Aszú production, and accounts for 60% of the land area.
A variety of wines are produced in the Tokaj area, however Tokaji Aszú is the most prominent. Even though Tokaji Aszú is a sweet wine, the taste is not cloying or heavy. The smooth, velvety texture explodes on the palate with a unique fruity flavour and a well-defined bouquet, which makes this an outstanding wine. Exceptionally good Aszú harvests were recorded in 1972, 1983, 1988, and 1999-2000.
Esszencia, the purest form of Aszú wine, is often referred to as nectar, and is one of the most exclusive wines in the world. It is produced from the run off juices of the aszú grapes collected during harvesting. Esszencia may be added to Aszú wines or left to ferment, which can take up to fours years, and then bottled pure. The sugar content of Esszencia is at least 450 grams but can be as high as 700 grams per litre. The intense flavour of the resulting wine is incomparable, and unlike most other wines Esszencia preserves its quality for up to 200 years or longer.
Szamorodni is a prime wine, and is made with bunches of grapes that also have concentrations of botrytised grapes, and often contains up to 100-120 grams of sugar per liter. Dry wines, known as ordinary wines are also produced.
Medicinal properties
It is comforting to know that a drink, which tastes so glorious, also has some health benefits. Tokaji Aszú is higher in vitamins, minerals, and trace elements than other white wines, and tests have shown that it has significant levels of polyphenols, which have strong antioxidant properties. Biogen amino acids, which strengthen and build muscles, have also been found. Potassium, calcium, and a range of B vitamins are also present as well as minute amounts of penicillin. A glass a day may not keep the doctor away, but this magical potion is a wonderful elixir for both the body and the soul.
Tokaji Aszú is widely known as a desert wine, however this magnificent ambrosia should be enjoyed without restrictions, and not just for medicinal purposes. It is excellent with very hot, spicy dishes, and is superb with Asian and Eastern flavours. It is wonderful shared with friends, and just as delightful when sipped slowly in the company of a good book. You don’t have to be a connoisseur to enjoy Tokaji Aszú, which is undeniably “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum”.
Sources;
Tokaj Historical Wine Region.
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Erika Gösi - I was born in Hungary, but I have lived abroad all my life where I was fortunate to have experienced many wonders of Africa and Australia, ...
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