Popular opinion is that a pig is a pig is a pig, however in all things porcine, not all pigs are created equal. The Hungarian Mangalica is a unique breed that has been elevated to the status of National Treasure following successful conservation efforts to save the breed from the brink of extinction.
To understand the true nature of the beast it is important to explore the Mangalica’s heritage.
Decimated Pig Stocks
During the 150 year Turkish occupation of Hungary that ended in the late 17th Century, the pig population was seriously diminished, and only small herds of semi-wild animals survived in isolated parts of the country. The two main breeds were the Bakonyi and the Szalontai pigs.
The brown or dark grey large boned Bakonyi pig was an ancient species indigenous to the Carpathian basin. It had curly fur, a long head, erect ears, and was prolific in the huge oak forests of Transdanubia where it thrived on a diet of acorns.
In contrast, the floppy eared Szalontai pig, descendant of wild boars, preferred the more open habitat of the Hungarian Plains. It was large, long legged, reddish/brown or bright red, and was introduced to the area by the first Magyar settlers in the 9th Century.
Search for Breeding Stock
Due to its muscle fibre the Szalontai had tasty, but tough meat and although the Bakonyi pig was extremely hardy it was a slow breeder. Both species were lean as they maintained a free-range browsing lifestyle, which came under threat towards the end of the 18th Century, when the wider use of maize products resulted in considerable habitat destruction. With the changing market conditions there was a greater demand for lard, bacon, and good quality meat.
The search for new pig stocks continued as far afield as Croatia, the home of the Sumadia pig, which was a good lard breed with tasty meat that was well liked in Hungary.
When droves of the Serb Sumadia pigs were herded across Hungary to the animal markets, some were either stolen, or wandered off and bred with the semi wild Hungarian Bakonyi and Szalontai pigs. This crossbred animal remained hardy, with a high fat yield and very tasty meat that was in great demand.
Beginning of a National Breeding Program.
In 1833 the Prince of Serbia, Milos Obronevic who was a prominent breeder of pedigree Sumadia pigs, presented Archduke Joseph of Hungary with a breeding stock of 10 Sumadia sows and 2 boars. The popularity of the crossbred pigs inspired Archduke Josef to establish a breeding centre, where he specialised in cross breeding the Sumadia with the Hungarian Bakonyi and Szalontai pigs. Taking care not to sacrifice ancient bloodlines and characteristics, he successfully bred the Mangalica.
By the end of the 19th Century virtually every pig breeder in the country had stocks from the breeding centre, which helped to keep the species pure and standards consistent. Subsequently, due to the popularity of the Mangalica, both ancient breeds the Szalontai and the Bakonyi pigs died out.
The Mangalica- A New Breed with Ancient Bloodlines
As a testament to their ancient heritage, all Mangalica piglets are striped. Mature adults have also retained many wild characteristics and can be unpredictable and aggressive.
The breed remains an extremely hardy animal, well suited to outdoor winter conditions. It yields large amounts of high quality fat, and remarkably succulent, and exceptionally tasty, marbled meat that is similar to Wagyu beef.
In 1927 the National Mangalica Breeders Association was formed, which regulates the breed registry, rules, and regulations that are still in place today with very few changes. The breed standards are strictly controlled, and all purebred Mangalica are registered.
Mangalica on the Edge
Despite its initial popularity the Mangalica struggled to survive. The 1895 outbreak of swine fever took 20 years to eradicate, and 50% of the pig population had to be destroyed, the majority were Mangalica. From then on the breed never fully recovered its place in the market.
After WW1 and the Trianon Treaty, Hungary lost 72% of its territory and 51% of its pig population. The breed declined even further during WW2 when large numbers of were removed to Russia. During the communist era, the less prolific and slow maturing Mangalica was abandoned in favour of more intensive pig farming. Trends were towards vegetable oils and lean pork, lard was out of fashion, and the Mangalica became obsolete.
By 1973 there were only 43 sows left. The breed was declared an endangered species in 1974, and Government gene banks were established around the country to preserve the species. By 1990 the Mangalica population rose to a few hundred, however with the fall of communism the old regime was swept away, including the National gene banks. In 1991 Mangalica numbers were once again on the decline.
Revival of the Mangalica
Hungarian geneticist Peter Tóth was determined to save the Mangalica from extinction. Juan Vicente Olmos Llorente, head of Spain’s Monte Nevado Ham Company proposed a ready-made market for Mangalica products, and was also instrumental in promoting the breed. Due to Peter Tóth’s unwavering efforts and the joint cooperation of the Gyulai Meat Works, Hungarian breeders, and Agricultural Institute, the Mangalica has been elevated from a dying breed to a commodity of great demand.
The Mangalica has been a conservation triumph, partly due to its international success based on the excellence of its meat, which has become a stock supply for the world famous Serrano hams. It is also gaining great popularity in Japan and USA, and is now a registered breed in U.K. Despite this it is not a commodity of mass production, which is reflected in the price, and remains a delicacy to be enjoyed on special occasions, rather than an every day staple.
There are four types of Mangalica from different crossbreeding, the Swallow Bellied, the Red, the Black, and the Blond Mangalica, which has always been the most sought after. Unfortunately the Black species died out in the 1970’s and although both the Swallow Bellied and the Red Mangalica were endangered, their numbers are now on the increase. The only difference between the types is external. They all share the same superior fat characteristics and meat quality that has made the breed so renowned.
Genetically the Mangalica is unique and has qualities that may be of future interest; therefore geneticists consider the survival of the breed a huge victory.
Is Mangalica Meat Cholesterol free?
Is the Mangalica meat healthier, easier to digest and cholesterol free? Unfortunately the answer is "NO" it is not. However, if it is raised free range on a natural diet, its fat is more unsaturated than regular pig fat, and melts at a lower temperature. It also contains higher levels of oleic acid and omega 3, although its real claim to fame is simply the exceptional tasting marbled meat that has impressed gastronomists, and chefs around the world.
Sources: -
09/10/2010 Origins of the Mangalica
09/10/2011 Mangalica Breeders Association
06/02/2009 History of the Mangalica
Erika Gösi - I was born in Hungary, but I have lived abroad all my life where I was fortunate to have experienced many wonders of Africa and Australia, ...
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