The thought of going to the Post Office museum filled me with as much enthusiasm as the thought of watching paint dry, although on the recommendation of a friend I half-heartedly decided to go. I went, I saw, and I was mesmerised!
Budapest is home to many fine museums including the Museum of Fine Arts, the Hungarian National Gallery, and the Museum of Applied Arts. Next to these cultural giants the Post Office Museum is indeed a midget, but what it lacks in size it makes up in character. This tiny museum is a rare jewel, and is well worth a visit.
The Budapest Post Office Museum, better known as the Saxlehner Palace, is located at No. 3 Andrássy Avenue, which is within the Budapest World Heritage area.
Saxlehner Palace
Saxlehner András (1815-1889) was an entrepreneur who became extremely wealthy from the sale of bitter mineral water, which became very popular and in great demand all over Europe, and even as far a field as New York. The water was marketed as Hunyadi János mineral water, named after a 15th Century Hungarian military hero.
The Saxlehner Palace was built according to the very exacting plans and specifications of building engineer Czigler Gyözö, and was completed in 1886. An army of accomplished craftsmen, artist, and masters contributed to the building’s eclectic style, which was further enhanced by the exceptional standards of Saxlehner András. No expense was spared. Lotz Károly who is famous for the Budapest Opera house ceiling murals, also painted the murals throughout the building and stairways of the Saxlehner Palace. The rich patina of wood panelling and carved wooden ceiling inlays compliment the Venetian chandeliers and mirrors, which blend in harmonious luxury with the intricate Carrera marble fire places, and spectacular tapestries and paintings. When the building was completed, Saxlehner András moved his business offices to the first floor, where he also kept a private, seven-room apartment for his family’s use. The upper levels were rented as luxurious residential apartments. In 1938 the Saxlehner family sold the building.
Post Office Museum
After World War 2 the Hungarian Stamp Collectors Association obtained the lease for the Saxlehner family apartment, and to their credit they kept the apartment in its original state. In 1972 when the Budapest Post Office Museum took over the lease they restored the aging fixtures and fittings, before moving in the museum exhibits, and they have been the unofficial caretakers of the apartment ever since. All the murals in the building were faithfully restored in 1988, by the Budapest National Culture and Heritage bureau. The Post Office Museum has been in the Saxlehner apartment for almost 40 years, although its future in the present location is insecure.
Sale of Saxlehner Palace
In 2002 the building became the property of the City Council who sold the building two years later. This prime piece of real estate in the heart of the Budapest World Heritage area was sold by the City Council for the unbelievable sum Ft 328 million, (approximately US $1.5 million) to a company that was owned by a pair of unknown university students who had no capital of their own. It is not known whom the students were fronting for, but they became the owners of a building covering over 2000 square meters for the price of a 400 square meter villa in the Buda Hills.
Even by 2004 real estate prices the sale figure is conspicuously under market value, and would be laughable if it were not so tragic. The artistic and heritage value of the building alone is worth considerably more. Corrupt Government Officials of previous administrations have much to answer for, including accepting bribes and selling Heritage listed buildings and valuable real estate at fraudulent prices.
Sale of Building in Dispute
There has been a lot of controversy over the original sale that is believed to have been unlawful. This is not only because of the ridiculously low sale price but also because the purchasing company was not legally registered at the time the sale was finalised, and also because the tenants were not given options to purchase their apartments. The Post Office Museum has been in litigation over the matter for many years, and hope to either reverse the original sale agreement, or to obtain the property rights to the Saxlehner apartment, in which the museum is housed.
To date no legal verdict has been reached. The present Government has brought many such incidents to light, and although the original culprits and corrupt officials are being brought to justice, it seems that what was done is never undone. In 2007 the building changed hands once again, and the new owners are already developing the top attic floor into luxury apartments, despite the unresolved and ongoing legal proceedings.
Museum within a Museum
The Saxlehner apartment is known as a museum within a museum for good reasons. The original 19th century décor, the parquet floors, gilded cornices, intricately carved wooden doors, fabulous ceiling murals, silk wall coverings, and drapes blend perfectly with the Museum displays in an opulent setting from a more genteel era.
Antique telephones adorn side tables, while telecommunications paraphernalia from a bygone age are dotted around rooms, on mantels, desks, and cabinets. Ancient typewriters, teleprinters, post office counters, switchboards, even various forms of post office transport add to the interesting mélange. Also of interest are the initials A.S. – Andreas Saxlehner – which are carved into many features around the apartment, a fireplace, an ornamental doorframe, a decorative moulding, or gilded mirror.
At the present the fate of the Budapest Post Office Museum hangs in the balance, and nobody seems to know whether the current lease will be honoured, or renewed. Their occupation of the premises is tenacious, as is the long-term fate of this state of the art 19th century apartment. Hopefully sanity will prevail by either the current owners, who should accept responsibility and preserve this small piece of cultural heritage, or at least by the authorities who must ensure that this historical treasure is not lost.
Visitors to Budapest should definitely take the time and the opportunity to visit the Post Office Museum. Even in a city with so much rich culture, this is a special and unique little gem.
Sources:-
10/03/2010 The Post Office Museum’s Four Year Battle
04/05/2006 Andrássy Avenue Palaces Selling for a Song
Erika Gösi - I was born in Hungary, but I have lived abroad all my life where I was fortunate to have experienced many wonders of Africa and Australia, ...
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